SLF Guide to Layout for Small Press/POD/Self-Publishing (print)
compiled by Mary Anne
Mohanraj
This guide was evolved to assist people who are learning to make books for
the first time (perhaps starting a small press, perhaps self-publishing
their own book): people who are unfamiliar with layout, and who would
like
their books to look as professional as possible. Layout and copyediting
is a complex arena, and many published books do not handle these issues
well. We hope that with the aid of this guide, new editors/publishers
will be able to make cleaner, more readable books.
Do keep in mind as you're going through these guidelines, that most of
these layout rules evolved to minimize visual distraction for the reader,
so the major rule of thumb is that anything the eye snags on should
probably be fixed. You want your readers to notice the story, not the
layout.
And of course, what is most likely to mark your book as unprofessional is
poor spelling or grammar -- computer checkers are unreliable, though they
can serve as a good first step. If you aren't a spelling whiz or a
grammar geek yourself, we strongly recommend finding kind friends who are
and bribing them with chocolate, or, barring that, paying a professional
to check your spelling and grammar.
In general, that's a good rule for any aspect of book production (aside,
perhaps, from the actual writing of the text) -- if you can't do it
yourself or don't have the time or inclination to learn, either look for
friends who do have the expertise, or pay a professional a reasonable rate
to do the job.
Thanks to Jed Hartman, Fruma
Klass, Janet Lafler, Kelly Link,
Rebecca Maines, Jim Munroe,
Karen Schaffer, Paula Schumacher, Wendy
Shaffer, Heather
Whipple, and
Shmuel for all their kind
assistance.
Please note that this is a work in progress; if you have
suggestions for additions or edits, please direct them to Mary Anne.
Last updated: 4/14/04
Table of Contents
General Resources
Robin Williams published a pair of books years ago that address many of
these basic issues, like spaces, true quotation marks, em & en dashes,
leading, etc. They're called The
Mac is Not a Typewriter and
The
PC is Not a Typewriter. (The Mac/PC versions of the Typewriter
book are nearly identical, just adjusted for the key combinations
necessary to achieve the appropriate effects [command, option, control,
apple, alt]. So you don't need both unless you want to give specific
instructions in both "languages".) We highly recommend these! She also
has a follow up book called Beyond
the Mac is Not a Typewriter and an excellent basic design book
called The
Non-Designer's Design Book.
You might also want to read the first section ("The Parts of the Published
Work", covering Books and Journals) of the Chicago
Manual of Style. And then check out Appendix A, "Design and
Production -- Basic Procedures and Key Terms." Appendix B is a flow chart
diagram of the publishing process. (In CMS14, this would be Part 3,
"Production and Printing".)
If you're feeling bold (or compulsive), we recommend James Felici's The
Complete Manual of Typography, but it can be a little
intimidating to a beginner.
Jed Hartman also offers a brief
introduction to typography and its terms, which may prove of
interest.
Fonts
For the main text of your book (the body text), avoid fonts that are
too big, too small, too fancy for regular text, and fonts which display
well on screen but don't print well. Fonts which read easily in big blocks
of text are generally serif fonts (though not always; interestingly,
readability studies indicate that people actually find easiest to read
what they're most familiar with).
Some body text standards include: the Times family (there are a lot
of variants), Centaur, Palatino, New Century Schoolbook, Stone,
Garamond, Bodoni, Minion (slightly more modern), and Hoefler. You can buy
an of these for roughly $100 on the Adobe website, and we highly recommend
buying at least one good font set, since the ones on your computer don't
actually have everything that you need -- they're partial sets.
- For body text, don't make lines of text too long; if you've got more
than 14 or 15 words on an average line, even in a large trade paperback,
your font may be too small.
- Headings (such as chapter or story titles) may use a large or bold
version of the body font, or may use a "display font" (often sans-serif).
Page Headers
- Note: recto means right, verso means left; these words are generally
used in layout instructions because they have no other meanings.
- In a short story collection, the title of the current
story almost always goes on the right-hand pages, with the left-hand pages
giving the name of the author (if a multi-author anthology) or sometimes
the name of the book (in some single-author collections). For a novel or
other book-length single work, the author's name usually appears on one
facing page, and the book's title on the other; I don't think there's a
standard convention for which is left and which is right. If the chapters
have titles, they sometimes appear where a short-story title would
appear.
Some book-length works don't put authors or titles at the tops of pages;
if the entire book consists of one work by one author, you can assume the
readers know what they're reading. The key point to bear in mind is that
page headers are a navigational device, to help readers tell where they
are in the book. The main thing to avoid is to put the book title at the
top of every page of a collection of shorter works -- that doesn't help
anyone.
Note as well that first pages of chapters shouldn't have a running head.
(Using running footers rather than running heads for the book title, page
number, etc., is an easy way to avoid dealing with learning how to
suppress the header on those pages. It's not the most frequently used
style, but it's certainly not uncommon or unprofessional.)
If in doubt, or not sure how to make your word processor deal
with changing running heads from section/chapter to section/chapter,
stick to the same running head through the text -- fewer opportunities
for error. (If you do want to try it, and you're using MS Word for
layout, you want to learn how to use section breaks; that'll allow for
different headers for each section).
- Be careful not to place the running head too close to the text; allow
some white space below it.
- The headers/footers are generally in a smaller type size.
- Pages without text (blank pages between stories, or pages at the end
of books, or at the beginning) should never have headers or page numbers.
They should be entirely blank.
Page Numbers
- Page numbers should almost always go at an outer corner of each page,
whether outer upper or outer lower. Again, they're a navigational device;
page numbers on inner corners of pages are much harder to see. Sometimes
they appear centered at the bottom of every page.
Page Layout
- Chapters and stories generally begin on a new page, rather than on the
same page as the end of the previous chapter or story. Not a universal
rule, but very widespread.
If they do run in, i.e., chapters don't start on a new page (common in
paperback books with lots of short chapters), allow four blank lines
between the end of one chapter and the title/number of the next.
However, if one of those space breaks falls at the top/bottom of a
page, the reader needs a cue that there's a break (and flush left text
isn't enough; they doesn't always notice that). It is customary to
add some sort of dingbat. Three spaced-out asterisks can be used, but
there are plenty of dingbats available (and one is enough).
- By convention, at least in the US, short stories generally begin on
right-hand pages rather than left-hand pages; if a story ends on a
right-hand page, there's usually a blank left-hand page before the next
story begins. This is a far from universal convention, though.
- However, page 1 should always be a right-hand page.
(Note: Be wary that if you don't number your blank pages [include them
in the section numbering, even if a number doesn't actually appear on
the page], you can get into trouble because the number is forced to the
next page with text. Moral: Check it twice. And then again. :-)
- Do check your margins -- many small press books these days appear to
have much narrower margins than books from big houses. It's a minor
point, but one which can contribute to an unprofessional look; it looks
like you're being chintzy with space for no good reason. Allow a minimum
of one inch margins around the text. If you have different
gutter/margin settings, make sure you use the mirror setting in Word.
Paragraph Justification
- After a space break, the first new paragraph is not indented.
- If you have short lines and use long words, you can get into "rivers
of white" in justified text. People correct for this by allowing
hypenation. If they manually put in hypenation, beware. If later
anything changes, those hypens may still be in the word which is now
in the middle of the line (instead of breaking at the end).
- Discussion of ragged right vs. justified text here?
Body Text Typesetting
- Avoid widows and orphans.
- Widow lines are single lines which appear at the top of a page.
- Widow words are single words which are on a line by themselves at the
end of a paragraph.
- Widows are also short lines at the end of a pargraph that appear at
the top of a page; most publishers' standard is that the text must fill
half a line, unless it's a short paragraph, say, of dialog, e.g., "Hello!"
she called.
- Orphans are similar lines or words which appear at the bottom of a
page.
A few of either are okay, but too many, and the book starts looking
unprofessional. The standard for lines alone on a page (at the end of
a chapter, mostly) is generally a minimum of four lines.
- Check for bad breaks (words broken at the line end somewhere other
than between syllables).
- Use one space after periods. Mary Anne notes, "The reasoning for this
was only explained to me recently, and I was very resistant up until that
point, since I'd been trained in the good old days, and I was an adamant
two spaces after a period gal (apparently a remnant from typesetting for
the typewriter in a monospace font like Courier). But apparently if you do
that, it tends to create the effect of rivers of whitespace running
through your text -- distracting!"
- Use an em dash instead of two dashes (and note that in typeset
material, there are usually no spaces on either side of the em dash).
- Underlined text in a manuscript should be converted to italics in
print. Note that if an entire sentence is italic, the punctuation
accompanying it is italic also. If only one word or phrase is italic,
the punctuation following is generally roman unless it's part of the
italic expression, e.g., And then the gun went bang!
- Beware of bold and all-caps: these are very sparingly used in body
text in published books. Use italics instead for emphasis. And don't
ever use multiple exclamation marks for emphasis. More than one (!!!!!)
emphasizes only one thing: The author/editor is unprofessional.
- Convert any special symbols like c-in-a-circle for copyright to the
appropriate actual symbol.
- Make sure that any . . . or ... are changed to actual ellipses (a
special character, just like em dashes). Also make sure that there are
four dots, not three, when the ellipsed material would have completed a
sentence if it hadn't been ellipsed.
- Use curved or slanted quotation marks and apostrophes, rather than
straight (hash-mark) quotes. Also beware of curly quotes facing the
wrong way, or a mix of hash-mark quotes and curly quotes (likewise
apostrophes). Don't trust your word processor's search-and-replace on
this -- sometimes it guesses wrong! You can use it for the first pass,
but you'll want to carefully check all of these while copyediting.
- A major publisher will also check for:
- ladders (three or more lines in a row ending in a hyphen, e.g., for
word breaks)
- stacks (same word "stacked" at the beginning or end of three or more
lines
- recto breaks (words broken across the turn of the page)
- verso breaks (words broken between the bottom of the left page and the
top of the right)
- loose lines (too much white space in a full line)
Front Cover
- When designing books, go to a bookstore and look over as many as
possible. Identify what works, and just as important, identify what isn't
working. You can learn as much from badly designed books as from
beautifully designed books.
- Don't center all the text on your cover or title page unless you're
really sure you want the visual effect that gives. Left aligning and
right aligning produce much stronger visual lines. Centering also tends
to appear old-fashioned.
- Don't use more than three different fonts on your cover -- this
includes counting bold, italic, underline etc. variations as different
fonts. It just starts looking messy and hard-to-read.
- Color-matching is almost impossible. Be aware that the colors on your
screen are not going to be the colors that you get with the finished book.
You can pay professionals (or take classes), but color-matching is still
more of an art than a science.
- Professional cover art can do wonders for a book's appeal; frequently
artists will give a discount to smaller presses. Expect to pay between
$300 and $3000 for professional cover art.
General Comments
Readability is one of the most important things to aim for. Look at
professionally published books you own and see how they do things; look at
which design choices work, and which don't. Don't be afraid to use
whitespace; pages jammed with too much close-packed text can be
offputting.
Use comfortable margins for the top and bottom and inside and outside of
each page. Use sufficient leading (vertical space between lines). Use
sufficient indentation at the beginning of each paragraph. Use sufficient
vertical space for section breaks, and to offset indented quotations.
Conclusion
If you actually go through the entire list above, I promise you your
books will look a hundred times better than most self-published and
small press books out there, and that will translate to readers being
more attracted to them, happier reading them, and possibly lead to even
higher sales. And you'll save us wincing at bad layout and design. :-)
Good luck!
- Mary Anne